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The Tradition and Trivia of Scottish Porridge


Spurtle

Spurtle 
$12.00 CDN

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Do you make these mistakes when cooking porridge?

  • Adding the salt too early - this hardens the grain, preventing it from swelling, and results in a less creamy bowl of porridge.

  • Stirring widdershins - this is said to invoke the devil or bring bad luck. Always stir deiseal (sunwise / clockwise) with your right hand.

  • Stirring with a spoon - 'they' (the traditional Scottish way to refer to porridge) should be stirred with a spurtle.

  • Eat it at the table - 'they' should be eaten standing up. This I think originates from when oats were eaten as brose, which must have weighed heavy on the stomach.


Scottish origins

The spurtle, or porridge stick, was used before the advent of rolled oats. The oatmeal had to soften and become edible, so it had to be cooked for a long time. The spurtle was used to stir it frequently to prevent the formation of large lumps.

In Shetland, porridge is called milgruel, and is sometimes made with bere-meal which is a kind of barley. The Gaelic name is brochan.

But now the supper crowns their simple board,
The halesome parritch, chief of Scotia's food;

The Cotter's Saturday Night, Robert Burns


Spurtle or Spatula?

In his book 'Treen and other Wooden Bygones', Edward Pinto tells us that "both spatulas and spurtles have their origins in Scotland. There is some confusion in terminology, but generally the drum-stick-like porridge stirrer is called a spurtle and a flat sided stirrer is a spatula. Both types of implement have a long history."

The Oxford English Dictionary records both uses of the word, dating back to 1572. The flat ones were used for turning oatcakes.

More recently two other factors have added to the confusion. First is the use by brewers of a long handled paddle which they call a Brewers Spurtle. Second is the popularization of a flat stirrer by Graham Kerr which he called a spurtle.


And if 'Spurtle' isn't a strange enough name...

......in some areas it is spirtle or spurkle.

And an alternative name is theevil, though there are even more alternative spellings for this word: thivel, thible, thyvelle, thyvil, thyvel, thieval, thibel, thibble, thybel, thavel, thaivel, thabble and theedle.

The origins of the word are obscure, but those spelled with v are probably oldest and was used in Scotland and Northern England. Those spelled with b are used only in Northern England and appeared two centuries later.

A few quotes:

Alexander Ross, Helenore, 1768, "The thivel on the pottage pan, Shall strick my hour to rise."

Elizabeth Moxon, English Housewifry, c1750's, "With a paste-pin or thible stir in your flour to the butter".

Emily Bronte, Wuthering Heights, 1847, "The quicker the thible ran round..the faster the handfuls of meal fell into the water."

Reference:
Oxford English Dictionary.


I bequeath my Porridge Pot

While searching the internet for information about porridge, the most bizarre thing I found was the Last Will and Testament of Edward Major of Stowe Parva in England. When he died in 1694, he left no less than three porridge pots to his nearest and dearest.

His 'best brass porridge pot' went to his granddaughter Ellen Major, and the 'last brass porridge pot' to his grandson Edward Major. I believe that the 'middle most brass porridge pot' was left to a Mary Spatcher, though I find the preamble a little confusing.

To learn what happened to his sheep and other worldly possessions, you can read the whole will.

More resources:

Oatmeal & Porridge

 

 

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